Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's vibrant 1990s cultural landscape, progressing from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that spontaneity."

While Enninful may seem wistful, he is not the only one. Recently, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful believes a profound shift. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere."

A Cultural Backslide

This shift is hard to ignore: the resurgence of far-right politics, the backlash against social awareness, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the late 90s, now a more divisive political personality looms as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has become contentious again.

For Enninful, the solution has long been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, including a wide range of cultural icons from music.

"People with a voice should employ it," he comments, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain was not a open country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this phase will fade."

Hope in the Next Generation

He takes comfort in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I didn't even know what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a groundbreaking career built on fearlessness and representation. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from all walks of life. Significantly, sales grew.

"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since moving on from his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … all that gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

In contrast to the caricature of fashion editors as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His path has not been immune to adversity, including publicly shared struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also undergone significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This determination to fit into a box has inspired him away from the realm that built his career. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"Galleries didn't always promote the most relevant talents because they did not have the traditional credentials," he observes.

This project itself uses a unique business model, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he believes, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the younger Edward react to the Edward of today? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."